the bored walk.
friday august 30th
dawn patrol. no waves.
a nice swell formed friday around 1 pm.
hopped on the train to rockaway for some end of summer surf.
upon arrival. decent waves. crowded.
big wave buddy. legend.
legends have stories. legends never die.
chaka brah.
if you got a few frames left on the roll pop em off on the way to the lab. 09 01 07 am
CLAM$ CA$INO

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